After a whirlwind month ping-ponging between Southampton, London, and Paris, we needed a place to catch our breath. Antibes, nestled between the glitz of Cannes and the crowds of Nice, promised exactly that. What we discovered was a coastal town that perfectly embodies everything we love about slow travel in France.
Why We Chose Antibes Over Nice or Cannes
When planning our French Riviera itinerary, most people assume you go straight to Nice or Cannes. We almost did. But after researching family-friendly destinations on the Côte d'Azur, Antibes kept appearing as the locals' favorite.
The deciding factors:
- Authentic old town without tourist traps
- Walking-friendly streets perfect for kids
- Lower accommodation costs compared to neighboring cities
- Daily markets for fresh food and cultural immersion
- Fewer crowds than major Riviera destinations
Looking back, it was the perfect choice for our family's first taste of the Mediterranean lifestyle.
Paris to Antibes by Train
Three trains, eight hours, and one very good Mediterranean payoff.
Getting to Antibes: The Train Journey
Three trains and nearly eight hours with three young kids. Not our smoothest travel day, but it got the job done.
| Leg | Type | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Paris to Nîmes | TGV high-speed | 3.5 hours |
| Nîmes to Marseille | Regional train | |
| Marseille to Antibes | Local train |
The girls held up well for the whole thing. When the Mediterranean finally appeared outside the window on that last stretch, we were all more than ready to stop moving.
Book TGV seat reservations in advance if you're travelling on a Eurail pass. We left it too late and spent more time scrambling at the station than we should have.
Our Antibes Accommodation Experience
We stayed in a charming apartment in the old town, complete with a stunning terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. The location was perfect—walking distance to markets, restaurants, and the harbor.
What We Loved:
- Private terrace with sea views
- Central old town location
- Walking distance to everything
- Authentic French apartment feel
The Challenge:
- Washing machine flooding incident (more on that below)
The accommodation gave us exactly what we needed: space to spread out, a kitchen for simple meals, and that terrace where Lindsay and I could unwind with evening drinks while the girls played nearby.
The Great Laundry Disaster of 2022
The Great Laundry Disaster of 2022
Day two brought unexpected drama. We started our first load of laundry, desperately needed after weeks of living out of backpacks, when neighbours came pounding on our door. Our washing machine had flooded the entire lobby and the electrical panel downstairs.
How It Unfolded
The Laundry Timeline
Day
2
The Flood
Started a load. Neighbours arrived at the door shortly after. Lobby and electrical panel, completely soaked.
Day
3
The Verdict
Handyman confirmed a pipe issue in the building, not the machine. Not our fault, but still our problem.
Day
4–5
Bathtub Laundry
Hand washing in the bathtub. The girls found it genuinely funny, which helped.
Day
6+
Creative Solutions
We figured it out. You always do.
It was our first real lesson in French plumbing bureaucracy, and a decent introduction to what long-term family travel actually looks like when things go sideways. When your laundry plan fails three weeks into living out of backpacks, you adapt.
Daily Life in Antibes: Markets, Meals, and Mediterranean Moments
Morning Market Adventures
Every morning, the Provençal market came alive in the old town. This wasn't a tourist attraction—this was real life. Local vendors selling fresh produce, flowers, and regional specialties.
Market Highlights:
- Fresh baguettes (essential for authentic French experience)
- Local cheeses and olives
- Seasonal fruits and vegetables
- Traditional crafts and souvenirs
Cora and I made morning market runs our special tradition. She'd practice her few French words while I attempted to navigate vendor interactions with pointing and smiling.
Dining Discoveries
Antibes surprised us with its culinary diversity. While we expected traditional French cuisine, we found international options that kept our picky eaters happy.
Memorable Meals:
| Restaurant | Cuisine | Kid-Friendly | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Moonshine BBQ | American BBQ | ★★★★ | €€€ |
| Local Pizza Place | Italian | ★★★ | €€ |
| Market Vendors | French/Local | ★★★★ | € |
Antibes isn't cheap, but it's noticeably more affordable than Cannes or Monaco, which matters when you're feeding a family three times a day.
The Anti-Car Paradise
One of Antibes' biggest advantages for families with young children is the pedestrian-friendly old town. Most streets are walking-only, which meant:
- No constant worry about traffic
- Easy stroller navigation
- Kids could explore safely
- Everything within walking distance
This car-free environment let us relax in a way we hadn't since leaving home. The girls could run ahead on cobblestone streets without us panicking about vehicles.
What We Actually Did (Spoiler: We Relaxed)
After a month of intense sightseeing, our Antibes week was intentionally low-key. Sometimes the best family travel experiences happen when you're not trying to see everything.
Daily Routine That Worked:
- Morning: Market visit or beach walk
- Midday: Rest time in the apartment
- Afternoon: Explore different neighborhoods
- Evening: Dinner out or terrace time
Unexpected Highlights:
- Wedding celebration: Stumbled upon a traditional French wedding procession
- Emergency response: Witnessed firefighters rescuing a dog from a locked apartment
- Gelato research: Conducted thorough investigation of local ice cream quality
- Sunset terrace sessions: Our nightly ritual of adult conversation and kids' iPad time
The Slow Travel Revelation
Antibes taught us something crucial about sustainable family travel. We didn't visit a single major tourist attraction. We didn't check any items off a must-see list. Instead, we lived like temporary locals.
What Slow Travel Gave Us:
- Time to process our previous month of intense travel
- Opportunity to establish routines with the girls
- Space for relationship conversations on that terrace
- Energy for the month ahead in Italy
This wasn't "proper" travel according to some people's standards. But watching our girls confidently navigate French markets, seeing them adapt to a different pace of life, and feeling genuinely rested for the first time in weeks—that felt pretty proper to us.
Practical Information for Families
Getting Around
| From Old Town | How to Get There |
|---|---|
| Beaches | 10-minute walk |
| Train station | 15-minute walk or short bus ride |
| Nice airport | 30-minute drive |
The old town itself is completely walkable and mostly pedestrian-only, which makes it genuinely easy with kids.
What Works for Families
- Pedestrian-only streets in the old town
- Daily markets for fresh food
- Multiple playgrounds, though some were inexplicably closed when we visited
- Easy beach access
- Limited organised activities for kids
Budget Breakdown
| Category | What to Expect |
|---|---|
| Accommodation | €100–200/night for a family apartment |
| Dinner | €15–25 per person |
| Lunch | €8–12 per person |
| Groceries | Similar to US prices |
| Activities | Mostly free — beaches, markets, walking |
Our Antibes Verdict
Overall Rating: 4.5/5 stars for families seeking authentic French Riviera experience
Perfect for:
- Families wanting to slow down
- Parents seeking authentic local life
- Kids who enjoy market exploration
- Travelers avoiding major tourist crowds
Skip if:
- You need organized activities for children
- You prefer luxury resort amenities
- You want maximum sightseeing efficiency
- You're on a tight budget
Looking Ahead: Italy Awaits
As we packed our lives back into suitcases for the journey to Genoa, we reflected on what Antibes had given us. It wasn't dramatic landscapes or impressive monuments. It was the gift of normalcy in an extraordinary setting.
Our girls learned that travel doesn't always mean rushing between attractions. Sometimes it means buying bread from the same baker three days in a row, or finding the perfect spot on a terrace to watch the sunset. These are the lessons that will serve them well as we continue this worldschooling adventure.
Coming Next: Our Italian month begins in Genoa, where we'll discover yet another approach to European family travel. From whale watching to pirate ships, Italy promises a completely different energy than our peaceful French Riviera interlude.
Watch Our Antibes Adventure
Plan Your Own French Riviera Family Adventure
Ready to experience the magic of slow travel in southern France? Contact Lindsay at [email protected] for personalized family travel planning that focuses on authentic experiences over tourist checklists.
